Much of the driving is on the dirt roads for which Finland is famous and which allow us to explore a superb backwater where the Sami culture remains very strong. This is the first of the “Midnight Sun” stages, when we drive and hike between 8 pm and 2 am. There is never much traffic on these roads, and almost none at night, so it feels like we are driving through a secret and mysterious world. We spend what is left of the night in a lovely little campsite at Enontekïo.